C de Carmes Haut Brion, Pessac-Léognan 2021

I've just returned from France tasting the much-discussed Bordeaux 2024 vintage. There’s plenty to share on that front soon – more to come in the next week or so – but one moment from the trip stands out above all others and that is where I want to focus for now.

On Tuesday night, I had the pleasure of attending a intimate dinner hosted by Guillaume Pouthier at Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion. The wines (pictured above) – and the atmosphere – were as memorable as you might expect. We tasted everything blind, with the fourteen of us invited to make fools of ourselves trying to guess what was in each glass.

It was a brilliant line-up. The 2013 Carmes Haut Brion – the first I’ve had in a while – surprised me with its charm, complexity and concentration. I wouldn’t rush out to buy it, but it was far far better than expected given the horror of the 2013 vintage in general. The real talking point, though, was a wine from another relatively unfashionable vintage, the Château's second wine: C des Carmes Haut-Brion 2021, poured from magnum and sporting its smart new label.

We all assumed it was the Grand Vin – the only debate was the vintage. That’s how convincing it was in glass. Texturally rich, dark-fruited, dense and seamless, it completely defied expectations for the year. I genuinely think it’s the best vintage of C des Carmes I’ve tasted, and I’d take it today over the 2019 or 2020. Those may have longer lives ahead of them, but for sheer drinkability and pleasure now, the 2021 is in a fantastic place.

I asked to buy whatever stock was available then and there, often dangerous after a glass or two, but no buyer's remorse today! It’s due to arrive with us next month and I couldn’t recommend it more highly. This offer is, in essence, a personal recommendation – but if you want the critics’ backing too, rest assured it’s there in spades.

“this is an absolutely delicious Le C des Carmes Haut-Brion”
Neal Martin, Vinous.com

“The 2021 Le C des Carmes Haut-Brion is a stellar wine. Rich, complex and super-expressive, the C possesses notable depth and textural intensity. ”
Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com