Burgundy 2023
En Primeur

Burgundy 2023 has been quite the surprise. When I first tasted a few samples in early 2024, I approached the vintage with some caution. However, after working through hundreds of barrel samples and bottled wines, I’ve found the experience overwhelmingly positive. 2023 is a vintage full of charm and accessibility.

The reds are particularly inviting, with ripe, vibrant fruit and elegant aromatics. The real sweet spot, in my view, lies at the more modest end of the market, where there's exceptional value and plenty of enjoyment to be had. At the top level, however, some producers seem to have pushed for more structure, which in some cases overwhelms the vintage’s natural charm. This has resulted in a few wines where tannin dominates, throwing off balance. Given current pricing at the top 1er Cru and Grands Crus level, I’ve been highly selective in my purchases. That said, I’ve still bought considerably more than I had anticipated. With the low yields and uncertain quality of the 2024 vintage, demand remains strong, and availability is tight.

For the whites, the warmth of the vintage is evident, leaning more toward tropical than citrus fruit, with moderate acidity. While I personally would have preferred a touch more acidity in some cases, it’s more a stylistic preference than a shortcoming. These are wines best enjoyed relatively young.

One intriguing aspect of 2023 is how vineyard distinctions remain clear, despite higher temperatures and yields. Unlike other warm vintages, where heat often blurs site expression, 2023 benefited from a cooler summer that preserved vineyard character. The warmth came at the bookends of the season rather than in its peak, which seems to have made a difference.

No en primeur campaign can be discussed without addressing pricing, and 2023 is no exception. Many domaines have kept prices reasonable, particularly at the more modest end of the market, where I think the vintage truly shines. However, at the top level, some producers have pushed prices further, grabbing headlines. Ironically, this is also the end of the market where I feel the vintage is less suited for long-term cellaring. As a result, most of my recommendations focus on village-level wines, where quality, charm, and value align beautifully.