Burgundy 2023 En Primeur

I have plenty more Burgundy 2023 to taste over the next week, in particular, so a fuller report will be completed towards the end of next week. Thus far, I believe 2023 is a vintage full of charm and ease of access, not necessarily one to buy in great volume for long-term cellaring.

The reds have inviting, ripe, vibrant fruit characteristics and pretty aromatics. I think the more modest end of the market is where there is most joy to be had. What concerns me is at the top end of the market, where some producers may have tried to push a little hard and make more structured wines, but as a result, the charming fruit of the vintage is taken over by too much tannin, causing imbalance. Given the top 1er Crus and Grands Crus prices, it’s perhaps no bad time to give some of them a miss this year. I don’t plan to buy or offer much at that level.

On the whites, the warmth of the vintage comes through with a more tropical rather than citrus profile, with moderate acidity. In some cases, the acidity could be a little higher, though that’s more of a personal preference than a failing of the vintage. Again, I feel they’re wines to be enjoyed relatively young.

One anomaly is that given the high average temperature over the year, you may expect less distinct differences between the vineyards, but that’s not the case. Where 2023 seems to differ from other warm-hot vintages is when the heat came. In 2023, the unusually warmer temperatures bookended the vintage, with a relatively cooler summer helping maintain vineyard expression, which refers to the unique characteristics and flavours specific to each vineyard.