Bordeaux 2014: Vintage Profile

Bordeaux 2014 was an intriguing vintage on release. It followed the lacklustre trio of 2011, 2012 and 2013,  three years that struggled with both variable quality and, more critically, absurdly high release prices. By the time 2014 arrived, consumers were weary and sceptical.

The wines themselves, however, were a pleasant surprise. Quality was good, if not uniform, and pricing was refreshingly sensible. After a hesitant start, the campaign gathered momentum and proved successful. At the top end of the market, it was a vintage where prices really shot up and rewarded those who resold their wines at the peak of the market.

The Northern Médoc stood out. Pauillac and St-Estèphe, able to harvest later, capitalised on the fine September conditions and produced wines of real depth and ripeness. By contrast, parts of the Southern Médoc and Pessac showed less generosity, with a streak of greenness and tannins that could be rather severe when not offset by ripe fruit. Margaux, in particular, was disappointing, with many examples failing to deliver the fragrance and charm expected of the appellation, with a handful of exceptions I'd look at other vintages for Margaux.

On the Right Bank results were mixed; too often the wines felt a little coarse and lacking polish, the Merlot being harvested in earlier September missed on on the ripening sun later in the month which benefitted the Cabernet on the left bank

In the broader picture, 2015 and especially 2016 were a clear step up in consistency and stature. Yet selectively, and especially in the north many 2014s outperformed expectations and continue to offer strong value versus the the premiums now asked for the following two vintages. Indeed, a number of St-Estèphe Châteaux believe their 2014 to be superior to 2016s and certainly the 2015s where St-Estèphe struggled. It often highlights how much the broad perception of a vintage dictates pricing, 2015 St-Estèphes are often pricier than the 2014s, despite the latter being far better quality more often than not.

Notable successes include Châteaux Capbern, Calon-Ségur, Montrose, Grand-Puy-Lacoste, Lynch-Bages, Labégorce, and Domaine de Chevalier.