Bordeaux 2024
En Primeur
As I prepare for my annual trip to Bordeaux to taste hundreds of barrel samples from across the region, here are a few thoughts on what we might expect from the 2024 vintage. Ultimately, as always, it boils down to two key factors: quality and price.
The Bordelais are master marketeers, so a healthy dose of consumer scepticism is justified. Two or three decades ago, it was common to see a few poor vintages each decade. Think 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994, and 1997 – all patchy to say the least. The early 2000s had 2002 and 2007, and 2013 was a true washout. Today, however, excellence seems to be the rule rather than the exception.
This shift is largely thanks to advances in vineyard and winery technology, evolving weather patterns, and a deeper understanding of viticulture and vinification. But how much of that is genuine progress, and how much is clever marketing spin?
In my view, both 2022 and 2023 were excellent vintages—distinct from each other stylistically, but high in quality. That said, 2022 was wildly overpriced in parts, and although 2023 offered a correction, it wasn’t quite broad enough to win back a disillusioned market. So with the 2024 campaign on the horizon, what’s the outlook?
Château La Tour Figeac recently announced they’re pulling out of en primeur altogether, citing poor market conditions. That doesn't exactly instill confidence. Yet, even in so-called “off” vintages, modern Bordeaux can produce wines of impressive quality. If the pricing is right, there will be opportunities—especially for those seeking large formats, which en primeur still offers better access to than the secondary market.
But here's the crux: the Châteaux have to want to sell to the end consumer. They need to show they value their customers. Expecting négociants and merchants to continue supporting en primeur—when many wines aren’t selling and cash is tied up unnecessarily—is unrealistic. When you can buy comparable back-vintages at lower prices, the case for en primeur becomes much harder to make.
I wouldn’t call this a make-or-break moment for Bordeaux’s en primeur system just yet—but we’re not far off. If the Châteaux want this institution to survive, they need to make it worth the buyer’s while. The next few weeks will reveal all.
