I have long held La Rioja Alta in the highest esteem. Founded in 1890 by five visionary crianzas—López de Lacalle, Berchieri, Fernández de Piérola, Ruiz de Galarreta and Gallastegui—in the tranquil town of Haro, this venerable bodega remains a bastion of classical Rioja winemaking, but accepting of modern improvements where essential. Their steadfast devotion sees each wine patiently aged for years in American oak, imparting characters of vanilla and dried cherry while preserving that hallmark Rioja acidity. Yet tradition here is far from static: beneath century‑old rafters, skilled winemakers blend fruit from the oldest vines alongside those from newer plots, striking a wonderful balance between pedigree and vibrancy. Every bottle bears the proud ellipsis—“Here lies Rioja at its most authentic”—and, as Neal Martin observes:
“Quite simply, these are some of the finest Riojas that can grace your cellar: complex, refined, classic but without compromising fruit intensity…wines that speak about where they come from.”
Neal Martin on La Rioja Alta
At the summit of their range sits the Gran Reserva 890, released only in exceptional years and matured six years in barrel—indeed, this is just the thirteenth vintage since its 1981 debut. Its slightly more modest sibling, the Gran Reserva 904, spends 4½ years in oak and, at a more accessible price, represents the wiser choice for many. Yet for my money the true jewel is the Viña Ardanza Reserva: three years in seasoned American oak yield a remarkable perfume of wild strawberries and toasted almond, underpinned by a fun tannic spine and a refined, enduring finish. The Ardanza is brilliant fun!
