Pieropan, Veneto

Pieropan has long been the name whispered with a certain reverence whenever Soave is mentioned, and for good reason. Their whites remain the benchmark of what this oft-overlooked corner of Veneto can truly achieve. The ‘standard’ Soave Classico, a wine of crystalline purity and focus, offers outstanding value and a perfect introduction to the estate’s style. It shows that Soave, when in the right hands, is far more than the dull quaffer many still associate with the name.

The single site Calvarino is a particular delight in my view. From old vines rooted in volcanic basalt, it is unoaked, tense, and mineral-driven, cut from the same cloth as good Chablis. There’s a vitality here that makes it instantly charming, yet it will reward those with the patience to let it evolve in bottle. By contrast, La Rocca is Pieropan’s crowning jewel. Grown on a tiny parcel of limestone and matured in 500-litre oak barrels, it is broader, more opulent, and positively strikingly rich with texture and depth. Both wines demonstrate that Soave, at its best, is not merely refreshing but also profound, capable of ageing with grace and sophistication.

Though Pieropan’s whites rightly command the spotlight, their reds deserve no less attention. The Amarone Vigna Garzon is a genuine showstopper. Where so many Amarones can either bludgeon the palate with alcohol and sweetness or else neuter themselves in a misguided bid for elegance, this strikes a perfect middle path. Rich and powerful, yes, but carried with poise, precision, and freshness. It manages to be both unmistakably Amarone and uncommonly refined. A real “wow” bottle, and proof that Pieropan is no mere master of white wine, but a producer of the highest calibre across the board.