Pio Cesare, Piedmonte
Named after founder Cesare Pio and dating back to 1881, this Alba-based specialist in Nebbiolo is now run by the fifth generation of the family, Federica Boffa and Cesare Benvenuto. One of the first producers in the area to export to the UK in the 1950s, their vineyards span across Barolo in all five communes, producing their Pio Barolo and Pio Barbaresco, which express the true essence of each by harmonising the distinct characteristics, echoing the philosophy of their principles from the 19th century.
“Two thousand twenty-one is a superb vintage for Barolo. Many of the entry-level Barolos (often referred to as normale or classico) are terrific, always a sign of a good year…The 2021s are marked by good color, open aromatics, pliant fruit and finessed, ripe tannins. At the very pinnacle of excellence, the finest 2021s are compelling and profoundly expressive of place.”
Antonio Galloni, VInous.com
All of their Nebbiolo is made with minimal intervention and short macerations, thus keeping the tannins elegant and modest. Ageing in large casks and barrels allows the vineyard's expression to be highlighted, rather than trying to ‘create’ styles that are overly oak-heavy, long-lived, and structured.
Their single-vineyard range is only produced in the best vintages, of which 2021 is undoubtedly one, along with 2010 and 2016, offering excellent concentration and, despite the minimal intervention approach, a long ageing potential.
I recently tasted the range in London with Cesare Benvenuto, a thoroughly charming and energetic chap. In my view, they excel in the top vintages, and perhaps the wines show less well compared to their peers in the more challenging vintages. Therefore, I don’t offer them every year, but 2021 is one to buy. The 2021 Barbera and also as Antonio Galloni alludes the ‘normale’ Barolo Pio is a standout.
