Saam Long 2024

Saam Long is a rather unusual white wine from Margaux, although you would never know it from the label. Produced from equal parts Chardonnay, Albariño and Petit Manseng, the varieties fall outside the local appellation rules, so despite being grown in Margaux it is bottled simply as Vin de France. The vines were planted from 2017 onwards on just 1.5 hectares at the foot of the Château Labégorce plateau, on a mixture of old alluvial soils and limestone, with the wine fermented and matured between small stainless-steel vats and used French oak barrels. The name Saam Long means “three dragons”, a reference to the three Perrodo children, the family's three Margaux estates and the three grape varieties in the blend.

It is a fascinating wine and not especially Bordeaux-like. The colour immediately made me think of white Burgundy or Chablis, pale but wonderfully vibrant, while the nose initially reminded me rather more of top Soave, particularly Pieropan's Calvarino, with white flowers, peach, pear and plenty of mineral character. There is a slightly oxidative edge as it opens which only adds to the interest.

The palate has more breadth than the appearance suggests, ripe and quite generous initially, almost giving the impression of a touch of sweetness before finishing completely dry. What I particularly like is the orange-pith bitterness through the finish, alongside ginger, crystalline lemon zest and a little phenolic grip. There is proper matter here, but also freshness and energy. An intriguing, individual white and, frankly, rather difficult to pigeonhole, which is probably precisely the point.