Bodegas Chaves Cinco Islas Oro Albariño

Founded in 1955, Bodegas Chaves enjoys an enviable position close to the coast, benefitting from the sea breeze to maintain healthy grapes and on granite soil to add complexity and minerality to their wines. They believe firmly in minimal intervention in the winery, only intervening when necessary. The whole range is produced from estate-owned grapes, ensuring maximum control over quality, and this is clear when tasting their range from top to bottom.

“Cinco Islas Oro” is Bodegas Chaves’ prestige label, from a selection of grapes from a 200-year-old vine stock, one of the oldest in Galicia, I believe. The proximity of these vines to the sea gives a certain salinity to the wine, marrying perfectly with the intensity you get from such old vines. This sees plenty of time ageing on its lees, so it has a fuller texture and reminds me of a Grand Cru Chablis in mouthfeel but with the hallmark stoney fruit and herbaceous character of Albariño.

This vintage has not been tasted by the major critics, but the last time Decanter tasted it, it received a Gold Medal for the region along with an impressive 96 points.