Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur:
Sweet White

I feel very sorry for many of Sauternes producers in Bordeaux. They’re often tarnished with the same brush used to criticise the top red producers who have, in recent years, raised prices well beyond what was reasonable. Given the painstaking work involved in producing top Sauternes, combined with the super-low yields harvested, it would be quite reasonable for many of these Châteaux to have increased prices in line with the top estates in the Médoc, yet they remain remarkably affordable.

Despite a dry end to August and the start of September, the hallmark botrytis, which characterises the best Sauternes vintages, flourished with wet conditions midway through the month. This, combined with the 2023's naturally high acidity, results in a lovely balance in the wines.

Château Doisy Daëne, Chateau Guiraud and Château Coutet are three of the highlights I tasted. The former is always outstanding value and exhibits the aforementioned balance perfectly.