I’ve no doubt said it before, but it gives me great joy to be able to buy my favourite producers and sharing them with my customers. Dönnhoff is without doubt the estate in Germany which has given me the most pleasure in my 20+ year career in wine.
“to Nahe, what Domaine de la Romanée Conti is to the Côte D’Or”
Today, the first offer from Dönnhoff I’ve made is focussing on the newly released 2022s. While their range is considerable in size, to make it slightly easier to digest, I’ve selected just 6 wines to feature.
"Dönnhoff is one of Germany’s best wine estates."
A pair of bone-dry Rieslings start proceedings including another staple in the McLean household, the Tonschiefer Dry Slate. Lovely to crack open in its youth with its zesty freshness, but will happily keep for 8 years+. A step up in their range is the Kreuznacher Kahlenberg, earlier ripening, it’s juicier and creamier in style with slightly more aromatics.
Grosses Gewächs are the German equivalent of Grands Crus, the top of the pyramid of dry Rieslings. I’ve selected two today, Hermannshöhle is minerally and full of stone fruit. Höllenpfad im Mühlberg is rather more soft fruit, peaches and apricots with a spicier edge. Both can be drunk in their youth but have a long life ahead of them and will reward patience.
At the off-dry end of the spectrum, I’m listing the Niederhauser Klamm Kabinett, grown on volcanic soils it’s lemony, with a slightly oily texture and finishes with a mineral edge. Finally, the Oberhäuser Brücke Spätlese, with a complex soil structure offers more tropical fruits and lime, with far more overt sweetness, balanced with high, refreshing acidity.
Along with the critics I cannot recommend these enough and I’m genuinely delighted to be able to offer them…as well as ordering a few cases for myself!